Frequently Asked Questions & Plant Care
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Tips for planting Annuals
Few annuals will withstand the cooler spring weather we typically experience in the Midwest. Snapdragons and Pansys are usually the first annuals to arrive in April, along with cold hardy vegetable plants such as artichokes, broccoli and cauliflower. The time for planting more tender Annuals and Vegetables is around Mother’s Day in the middle of May. If you chose to plant your Annuals before the cold weather passes, you’ll need to watch the weather and be sure to cover them up with a row cover or an old sheet at night. This will help protect against the cold air and frost we sometimes still get in late April. Any container Annuals can be brought in at night and set back out again during the day.
Check plant tags for light requirements. A sun-loving Annual needs at least 6 hours of bright, uninterrupted light each day. Partial sun/partial shade means 3-6 hours of sun or filtered sun each day. And shade is little to no sun.
Annuals prefer a well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Amend the top few inches of your soil with Peat Moss, Mushroom Compost or a good Garden Mix to help your Annuals thrive. Our custom made Garden Mix is perfect for flower and vegetable plants!
Set out plants close to the recommended spacing requirements. This will allow the plants to flourish and spread quickly. Planting Annuals is not an exact science. Do what looks good for your garden space or container. If the plant tag indicates petunias should be spaced 12” apart, realize it isn’t going to hurt the plant if you space them at 6” apart. Just remember, an annual grows from seed to maturity in one season. They are made to spread quickly.
Annuals have shallow root systems which means most will need to be watered every day, especially if they are in the sun where they can dry out quickly. If it rains enough to soak into the ground, you may not need to water. Check the top two inches of soil to see if your Annuals are getting enough water. If it’s wet, no need to water. If it’s dry, then give them a drink. Plants grown in a container or hanging basket tend to dry out quicker than those planted in the ground.
Create a regular fertilizing schedule for your Annuals. Use a water soluble or liquid fertilizer on a regular basis. These fertilizers are typically applied once every week to two weeks. Check the product you use for specific directions. A fertilizer with a high phosphate will create more blooms. Remember, Annuals only last one year. Feed these plants on a regular basis to get the best results.
Most Annuals die back after the first frost, which is usually around the end of October. Some, like Dianthus, may reseed themselves and will come back the following spring.
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Tips for planting Perennials
Perennials can be planted at any time of the year except when the ground is too frozen to dig a hole.
It is important to give newly planted Perennials a good home. Perennials prefer a well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Prepare the first few inches of soil by adding peat moss, mushroom compost, bark fines or composted manure. Taking time to prepare the space will help your perennials thrive.
Most perennials grow and fill in rather quickly. It is good to follow the recommended spacing on young plants so they will not be crowded once they have grown and matured.
Follow the light recommendation. Perennials that prefer shade will suffer in the sun and those that prefer sun will not thrive in the shade. Determine the type of lighting your space has and chose accordingly. A Perennial requiring full sun needs at least 6 hours of bright, uninterrupted light each day. Partial sun/partial shade means 3-6 hours of sun or filtered sun each day. And shade is little to no sun.
Before digging, leave the Perennials in their pots arrange them in your garden space. Move them around and tweak your design if needed.
Tease the roots of the Perennials before planting. Perennials and annuals are usually grown in smaller containers and can easily get root bound. Teasing the roots will encourage new roots to form.
A sprinkling of water does not produce the deep roots that Perennials crave. Instead, water Perennials deeply to encourage root growth. Do the 24 hour test check to see if you are watering enough or too much. Water the Perennials right when you plant them, then 24 hours later, dig down a few inches next to your new plant and see how much water the soil is holding. You are going for a well-drained soil, moist but not soggy. If the soil is soggy, hold off on watering for a day and then check again. If it is dry, then water again. Pay attention to your plant and watch for signs of wilting, dry leaves or droopy stems. If you are a new gardener, observing and doing the soil check will help you understand what your plants need and when.
Just like people, Perennials are living things and need to eat. Fertilize established Perennials with Mushroom Compost, Composted Manure, slow release granules, or triple super phosphate.
Tips for dividing Perennials
Most Perennials can and should be divided after a few years in the ground. Dividing Perennials gives the roots more space to grow and helps the plant perform better.
Chose an overcast, cloudy day to divide perennials. This will help keep the Perennials from drying out.
Dig up the parent plant using a sharp spade.
Gently life the plant out of the ground
Separate the plant by cutting it in two with a sharp knife or spade.
Replant immediately. If you are not able to replant right away then keep the Perennials shaded and moist until they are replanted.
Divide fall blooming perennials in the spring and divide spring and summer blooming perennials in the fall.
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How to chose the right shrub
Consider your needs and the plant’s needs when choosing shrubs. Are you looking for evergreens to serve as the backdrop to the rest of your garden bed? Are you looking for a pop of color to be the star of your space? Do you prefer a shrub with flowers or something that simply has an interesting leaf?
Take into consideration the location and available space. Remember barriers such as overhead and below ground utility lines, sidewalks and driveways and proximity to any structures. Think about windows and down spouts. Determine the maximum height and width you need. Keep in mind that most shrubs are easily trimmed to fit your space.
Consider soil and light conditions. Soil can be amended to a certain extent but not in all cases. A shrub that requires good drainage (such as an evergreen) will not function and grow properly in a wet area. Shrubs also need certain light conditions. Determine the type of lighting your space has and chose accordingly. A shrub requiring full sun needs at least 6 hours of bright, uninterrupted light each day. Partial sun/partial shade means 3-6 hours of sun or filtered sun each day. And shade is little to no sun.
When planting multiple shrubs together in one space, consider planting in odd numbers such as 3 or 5. Odd numbers are aesthetically more appealing to the eye.
When to plant shrubs
Shrubs can be planted at any time of year except when the ground is too frozen that it would be nearly impossible to dig a hole. The best time to plant shrubs is in cooler weather, which makes fall the optimal season. However you can still plant shrubs even in the middle of summer. Any shrub you purchase from a nursery, whether it is in a pot or B&B (balled-and-burlapped), can be planted at any time. If you wish to transplant a shrub, it must be done when the shrub is in dormancy. If you transplant a shrub in full leaf you run the risk of it going into shock and dying. October in the Midwest is typically a good time to transplant shrubs.
How to plant shrubs
Measure both the height and the width of the root ball on the shrub.
Dig a hole approximately 1 1/2 times the size of the root ball both deep and wide. This will allow extra room to amend the soil as well as room to adjust the placement of the shrub.
The soil in our area can be dense clay rather than loose and fertile. While some shrubs grow ok in clay, a richer soil will allow the roots a chance to establish and grow deeper. Before placing the root ball into the hole, “amend” the soil by adding a mixture of mushroom compost and top soil to the bottom and sides of the hole. Make sure the soil is packed well to avoid any setting after planting.
If the shrub is in a pot, remove the pot from the root ball by either gently pulling it out or by cutting the sides of the pot with a utility knife. If the shrub is balled-and-burlapped leave the burlap on until the shrub is set in place in the hole. This allows you to move the shrub around without disturbing the root ball.
Place the shrub in the prepared hole. A shrub should be planted with the top of the root ball either level to the ground or with the root ball a couple of inches above the ground, if you prefer to mound it up. Do not plant a shrub too deep.
If your shrub is balled-and-burlapped, once the shrub is in place cut any rope that may be holding the root ball together. Using a utility or similar knife, cut some slits in the burlap bag. This allows the roots to establish into the surrounding soil and will also allow for faster deterioration of the burlap.
Back fill the hole with your soil mixture. If there seem to be a lot of air pockets, you can gently pack the soil by using water around the root ball.
Spread 2-3 inches of mulch around the base of the shrub.
Water
How to water
Watering is possibly the trickiest part of planting. This is because soil responds differently from one area to the next. One space may hold water while another drains very quickly. The best thing you can do is pay close attention to how your shrubs respond to their new home. A newly planted shrub needs to be cared for especially right after planting and still closely for at least one year following. You want moist soil but not soggy. But there is no set schedule. You may need to water your shrubs every day for the first two weeks, however if your soil holds water then you run the risk of overwatering. Conversely if you have a well drained soil and you water every other day, you run the risk of too little water and your leaves will start turning brown, drying up and falling off. One trick is to water your newly planted shrubs right away. Then wait 24 hours and dig down about 6 inches next to the root ball and see what the soil is like. Again you are looking for moist but not soggy. Do not judge based on how the top of the soil looks – whether it is wet or dry. The soil could be wet on top and dry 2-3 inches down which would not be sufficient to get water to the roots. It can also appear dry on top but be soggy beneath. It is worth it to do the extra work and check it. If 24 hours after the first watering, the soil is soggy, then hold off on your watering for another day. Check again and go from there. If it is dry, then you will probably need to water your shrubs every day for the first couple of weeks, then ease off to every other day. Then gradually ease back from there. Remember to pay attention to your shrubs throughout the rest of the year as well. They may need extra water during the hot summer months as well as a good soaking before winter begins. Also, spreading mulch around your shrubs can help hold in water, which is beneficial especially on warmer days.
Fertilizer, Insecticide, Fungicide
Just like people, shrubs are living things and need to eat. Mushroom Compost, Composted Manure, slow release granules, and triple super phosphate are some of the fertilizers we carry. Our experts can help you find the best product for you.
And just like people, shrubs get sick from time to time. Fungus in your flowers and bugs in your bushes are no fun. However, shrubs are typically easy to treat and will usually bounce back within a year or so. Ask our experts to help you find a solution for any insect or disease you see in your shrubs. Place an infected leaf or small branch in a sealed ziplock bag and stop in to speak to our horticulturists.
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How to chose the right tree
Determine what function the tree will serve. Are you looking for shade, ornamental, or productive (i.e. fruit trees).
Take into consideration the location and available space for the tree. Remember barriers such as overhead and below ground utility lines, sidewalks and driveways and proximity to any structures.
Consider soil and light conditions. Soil can be amended to a certain extent but not in all cases. A tree that requires good drainage will not function and grow properly in a wet area. Trees also need certain light conditions. Determine the type of lighting your space has (full sun, part sun/shade, full shade) and chose a tree accordingly.
Keep in mind that certain fruit trees require a pollinator to produce. You may need to plant two complimenting trees.
When to plant a tree
Trees can be planted at any time of year except when the ground is too frozen that it would be nearly impossible to dig a hole. The best time to plant a tree is in cooler weather, which makes fall the optimal season. However you can still plant a tree even in the middle of summer. Any tree you purchase from a nursery, whether it is in a pot or B&B (balled-and-burlapped), can be planted at any time. If you wish to transplant a tree, it must be done when the tree is in dormancy. If you transplant a tree in full leaf it may go into shock and die. October in the Midwest is typically a good time to transplant a tree.
How to plant a tree
Measure both the height and the width of the root ball on the tree.
Dig a hole approximately 1 1/2 times the size of the root ball both deep and wide. This will allow extra room to amend the soil as well as room to move the root ball around for a well-placed tree.
The soil in our area can be dense clay rather than loose and fertile. While some trees grow well in clay, a richer soil will allow the roots a chance to establish and grow deeper. Before placing the root ball into the hole, “amend” the soil by adding a mixture of mushroom compost and top soil to the bottom and sides of the hole. Make sure the soil is packed well to avoid any setting after planting.
If the tree is in a pot, remove the pot from the root ball by either gently pulling it out or by cutting the sides of the pot with a utility knife. If the tree is balled-and-burlapped leave the burlap and wire basket (if it has one) on until the tree is set and in place in the hole. This allows you to move the tree around without disturbing the root ball.
Place the tree in the prepared hole. A tree should be planted with the top of the root ball either level to the ground or with the root ball a couple of inches above the ground, if you prefer to mound it up. Do not plant a tree too deep. Deep planting causes bark deterioration at the soil line which may eventually kill the tree.
If your tree is balled-and-burlapped, once the tree is in place cut any rope that may be holding the root ball together. Also use a wire cutter to cut the wire basket. Remove as much of the wire basket as possible. Using a utility or similar knife, cut some slits in the burlap bag. This allows the roots to establish into the surrounding soil and will also allow for faster deterioration of the burlap.
Back fill the hole with your soil mixture. If there seem to be a lot of air pockets, you can gently pack the soil by using water around the root ball.
Spread 2-3 inches of mulch at the base of the tree.
Small, younger trees may need staking so stake the tree, if necessary.
Water
How to water
Watering is possibly the trickiest part of planting. This is because soil responds differently from one area to the next. One space may hold water while another drains very quickly. The best thing you can do is pay close attention to how the tree responds to its new home. A newly planted tree needs to be cared for especially right after planting and still closely for at least one year following. You want moist soil but not soggy. But there is no set schedule. You may need to water your tree every day for the first two weeks, however if your soil holds water then you run the risk of overwatering. Conversely if you have a well drained soil and you water every other day, you run the risk of too little water and your leaves will start turning brown, drying up and falling off. One trick is to water your newly planted tree right away. Then wait 24 hours and dig down about 6 inches next to the root ball and see what the soil is like. Again you are looking for moist but not soggy. Do not judge based on how the top of the soil looks – whether it is wet or dry. The soil could be wet on top and dry 2-3 inches down which would not be sufficient to get water to the roots of any tree. It can also appear dry on top but be soggy beneath. It is worth it to do the extra work and check it. If 24 hours after the first watering, the soil is soggy, then hold off on your watering for another day. Check again and go from there. If it is dry, then you will probably need to water your tree every day for the first couple of weeks, then ease off to every other day. Then gradually ease back from there. Remember to pay attention to your tree throughout the rest of the year as well. It may need some extra water during the hot summer months as well as a good soaking before winter begins. Also, spreading mulch at the base of your tree can help hold in water, which is beneficial especially on warmer days.
Fertilizer, Insecticide, Fungicide
Just like people, trees are living things and need to eat. The best time to fertilize your trees is in late April or early May, or late fall once plants are dormant. We carry an assortment of fertilizer perfect for your trees.
And just like people, trees get sick from time to time. When caught early on, a tree infected with a bug or fungus can be treated using an insecticide or fungicide. Ask our experts to help you find a solution for any tree issues you may have. Place an infected leaf or small branch in a sealed ziplock bag and stop in to speak to our horticulturists.